怀旧青年变裁缝师 意外带动英国时尚界复古风

英国青年扎克•平斯特(Zack Pinsent)对回归传统英国绅士风格服饰情有独钟,靠自学意外成了备受瞩目的青年裁缝师。(pinsent_tailoring)

【大纪元2019年07月29日讯】(大纪元记者赵秀华综合报导)英国25岁青年扎克•平斯特(Zack Pinsent)因独特的穿着打扮,引发了越来越多的关注。原因是,他的服装品味跟同年龄人完全不同——他每天身穿英式复古正规礼服,头戴高高的礼帽,脖子系显眼的高领结,再搭配吸睛的发型,扮成英国摄政时期的绅士模样。

       

他认为这样的服装为他“树立了巨大的信心”。平斯特不但增添自信,也在寻找复古风的过程中,以文化品味丰富了自己的生活,后来更成为一名专职裁缝师。

平斯特来自英国布莱顿(Brighton),他很早就认为现代服装并不适合他,他甚至认为,自己没有理由任性地随意穿着。14岁时,他郑重地烧掉了最后一条牛仔裤,从那天起,无论走到哪里,他都是一身英伦复古风,至今他的衣柜中找不到一件任何现代服装。

即使很多人都觉得他的选择太奇怪,但他始终坚信自己对“时尚”的感受和观点。而且,他从未想过要放弃自己的坚持,“如果我很自己喜欢做的事情,为何要放弃?”他告诉BBC。

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What a whirlwind! Hello to all of you from all across the globe! Your outpouring of love and appreciation is simply astounding. I firmly believe that we should all dress in a way that makes us and the planet happy, it’s 2019, why be constrained? . I’m slowly getting around to answering over 800 emails, I don’t have the mental energy to answer all the IG messages, but every word I have read has touched my heart, the vindication is lovely. Have a wonderful weekend and stay hydrated 😁 . Btw, I’m not single, stop asking. . #sustainablefashion #regency #dandy #firstempireproblems #napoleonic #georgian #historicalfashion #tailor #tailored #periodtailoring #gaystagram #mensfashion #tailoring #regencyfashion #smallbusiness #madeinengland #regencydandy #periodtailor #historicalclothing #tailormade #periodfashion #bespoke #tophat #malemodel #historicaltailoring

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不过,平斯特却不喜欢二手货,这促使他开始认真学习剪裁,动手为自己打造专属复古及仿古(historical)服装。凭着对复古服装风格和样式的热爱,多年来他练就了成熟的裁剪技巧,创作出许多适合自己风格的服装。

平斯特更不吝与人分享他的的成果,经常在社交媒体展示他的精心之作,逐渐地吸引了包括一些服装界人士和艺术粉丝在内的广大网友的关注,他的个人账号竟有高达31万粉丝追踪!

而且,平斯特的创作都是有考究的,并非随意加入现代样式的综合版,所以,就能呈现出最经典的风貌,令看到的人有坠入时光隧道、回到过去的错觉。这些服装作品的风格跨越了超过二个世纪的时光隧道,从17世纪60年代到20世纪20年代,都是他汲取创作灵感的来源,他的作品中最受网友欢迎的是英国乔治时代风格(1714-1811),包括乔治四世摄政时期的服装。

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Outerwear . The next layer for colder weather in a #gentlemanswardrobe is outerwear. This consists of l #wool Garrick, topcoats and travelling coats and really any garment worn over a #frockcoat or #tailcoat. These serve the same function as today, keeping someone warm and protected from the weather. On the right you have a caped greatcoat sometimes called a Garrick coat, Coachmans coat or travelling coat. On the left you have a military inspired fully vintage fur lined coat from green wool with real gold braid and toggles. Useful and practical garments that could work even with modern clothing. Especially in a windy place such as #Brighton where you can’t use an umbrella. Maybe time to start planning your winter wardrobe. . But today it’s so darn hot that thinking about fur and wool is making me sweat more than a sinner in a church! . #regency #dandy #firstempireproblems #napoleonic #georgian #historicalfashion #tailor #tailored #periodtailoring #gaystagram #mensfashion #tailoring #regencyfashion #smallbusiness #madeinengland #regencydandy #periodtailor #historicalclothing #tailormade #periodfashion #bespoke #tophat #malemodel #historicaltailoring

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Tailcoat . The next layer in a #gentlemanswardrobe is the tailcoat. Tailcoats enter the European wardrobe from English hunting styles in the late 1780s and remain standard daywear through the #regency and #19thcentury . The height of style was a #bespoke well cut #wool #tailcoat of a dark blue, brown or olive with either covered or brass buttons, depending on prevailing fashions. Tailcoats were also made from extravagant and bold #silk as well as #linen and #cotton for warmer weather, as well as mixed fabrics, but nothing surpassed Superfine cloth and the elegance of a cut edge to best show the skill of the Tailor. . #dandy #firstempireproblems #napoleonic #georgian #historicalfashion #tailor #tailored #periodtailoring #gaystagram #mensfashion #tailoring #regencyfashion #madeinengland #regencydandy #periodtailor #historicalclothing #tailormade #periodfashion #tophat #historicaltailoring

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平斯特表示,通过为自己制作复古服饰,不仅树立了强大的信心,并且他也渐渐地发现,人们真的对他做的事情产生兴趣并给予赞赏。

事实上,已有足够的人愿意付钱请他量身打造,订做个人专属服装,他的独特个人爱好得以变成了一项全职工作,经济回报足以支撑他继续走下去。他在布莱顿成立了专门的裁缝工作室(Pinsent Tailoring),制作复古款式的男女服装。他的设计甚至受到美国客户的青睐,最近,他刚刚从纽约出差回到英国。

有客户这样评论他的作品,“我对扎克为我制作的服装非常满意,马裤、背心和燕尾服都很棒。从设计、时尚元素到配件,再到完美的搭配整合,都是如此,而且,我能亲自参与他的制作过程真的非常有趣。”

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Bespoke . After your pattern has been made we move onto the first fitting. This is usually a toile mock-up stage using calico to tweak the pattern and fit. This stage also allows the client to get an idea of shape and the layers involved and is the perfect time to make any changes to the specifics of their order, different colour, longer or shorter sleeves, pantaloons instead of breeches etc etc. This is the nature of #bespoke , you have all the options, I will of course help guide in regards to historical accuracy, but apart from that you’re free to decide. . #regency #dandy #firstempireproblems #napoleonic #georgian #historicalfashion #tailor #tailored #periodtailoring #gaystagram #mensfashion #tailoring #regencyfashion #smallbusiness #madeinengland #regencydandy #periodtailor #historicalclothing #tailormade #periodfashion #bespoke #tophat #malemodel #historicaltailoring

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Working away in the workshop being filmed by the lovely @bigbenmoore and @adpaylor for his @bbcsouthnews piece. I cannot thank you enough for helping me spread the message of self confidence and self belief. Just be yourself because everyone else is taken. . I’m in a bit of a media storm working through so much correspondence, I can’t guarantee that I can get back to everyone, I will be updating the website with prices too. #regency #dandy #firstempireproblems #napoleonic #georgian #historicalfashion #tailor #tailored #periodtailoring #gaystagram #mensfashion #tailoring #regencyfashion #smallbusiness #madeinengland #regencydandy #periodtailor #historicalclothing #tailormade #periodfashion #bespoke #tophat #malemodel #historicaltailoring

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对网友的热情和客户的肯定,平斯特保持低调和谦虚的态度,但这却挡不住他带动英伦复古风在时尚界持续火热的影响力,引发更多关注。就在一个月前(2019年6月27日),他登上了英国BBC新闻,以“为何我每天穿摄政时期的绅士服装”为题,分享了他的心路历程。这段视频至今在网路影音平台上的点阅数已近100万人次、在推特上也有约270万人次的观看记录。

平斯特在受访中分享他的成就感,“当看到别人穿上我为他们制做的服装时那种兴奋和满足,一切的辛苦都值得了!”


责任编辑:裴晏

 

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